Saturday 26 January 2002

At 1200, EST the Training Ship Empire State was moored starboard side to the dock in Vera Cruz, Mexico.(We will stay here until Tuesday morning at 0900, and then resume our previously scheduled training plan.) The sky was cloudy with northerly winds blowing at 20 to 25 knots, air temperature was 77 degrees Fahrenheit, barometric pressure was 1016 millibars and steady.

CAPTAIN'S LOG

"Liberty call, liberty call."

Cdr Ed Rozak, Assistant Commandant MMA

For over thirteen days you have been away from home. You have had a very rough ride for two days, been alongside a dock in Norfolk for two days (with no liberty), twice anchored off beautiful beaches in Florida (again no liberty), and finally you are READY to go ashore. Your destination is in sight! But no... not so fast. In keeping with the ancient theory of yin and yang; the MMA theory of "nothin's for nothin"; and my personal belief that "what goes around comes around"; the weather gods have snatched liberty from the jaws of success. The port of Vera Cruz was closed yesterday due to high winds.

As soon as we found out- without weeping, wailing, or gnashing of teeth- we changed clothes, got back into work mode and got busy. The cadets were great. We just took Monday's plan for watch, training, and maintenance... and stuck it onto yesterday. No complaints, just continue with the business of running a training ship.

I have to tell you though, EVERYONE was interested in the wind forecast for today. Our Second Mate, Navigator, and duty weatherman- LCDR Pete Weiss- was badgered by all aboard to predict the meteorological conditions for this morning. Tension built through the night. Will we be turned away again? Will we lose a day of Liberty? What if we can't get in AND we miss the Patriot's game on Sunday? Oh, the anxiety of it all! There was a collective sigh of relief when, at 0715 this morning, we were notified that the port was again opened for vessel traffic. We wasted no time. At 0835 we had the Mexican pilot onboard who would steer us through the narrow harbor entrance. At 0918 the first line sailed through the air from the bow, bounced on the dock twice, was grabbed by a line handler, and made fast to the bollard. The Empire State had arrived.

Over the next 40 minutes, the heavy hawsers that will bind the ship to the Tourist Dock here in downtown Vera Cruz were slowly hauled out of storage and dragged over the side of the ship to shore. The gangway was secured to the starboard side port and a small parade of Customs Officials, Immigration Officials, Agriculture Officials, Police Officials and Port Operation Officials marched up to my office for the usual paperwork drill of stamping crew lists, inspecting certificates and verifying documents. Although the port agents were efficient, quick and pleasant, it must have seemed like hours for the cadets, waiting on main deck for word that the ship was "cleared". Finally, at 1030, the words that are music to any sailor's ears: "LIBERTY CALL. LIBERTY CALL, FOR ALL OFFICERS, CADETS AND CREW."

Vera Cruz is a great port for the training ship to call. A working seaport on the east coast of Mexico, just west of the Yucatan but with few tourists, a visitor experiences the true culture of the Mexican people without the phony glitter of places like Cozumel and Cancun. Because the prices are low, cadets will feel rich as they sample real Mexican food and sit in the open air cafes that front the square in the little town. Marimba bands with four or five men dressed in huge hats and their finest suits of lights, silver threads and spangles everywhere, will wander from table to table, playing guitars. As they spot us, they will spontaneously break out with "La Bamba" the Richie Valen's song from the 60's, an old folk song from this city. The freshmen cadets will undoubtably try a Cuban cigar, a shot of tequila, a burrito grande, and fried chili peppers. They will buy the ornate sombreros that look like they were left over from an old spaghetti western ("Badges, we don't need no stinkin badges!")and will sit back in the lap of luxury while one of the swarming street urchins shines their shoes. We will probably be the only Americans in town, and I'm glad of that.

For the timid, there is always McDonalds and Kentucky Fried Chicken (they are everywhere) but for my money, this will be the best port on Sea Term 2002. Let's see what the cadets say about it tomorrow. Hopefully we can post some pictures and Cadet Comments on their adventures.