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Captain's Log for Tuesday 18 January, 2000


At 0800 EST (0300 GMT) the T/S Empire State was moored starboard side to the pier in Funchal, Madeira, located at 32 degrees and 35 minutes North Latitude and 16 degrees 53 minutes West Longitude. She was receiving various services from the pier. The skies were clear with winds out of the west at 3 knots. Barometric pressure was 1020 millibars of mercury. The air temperature was 60 degrees and seawater was 65 degrees.

boarding a tour bus: Cadets board a tour bus on the dock in Funchal, Madeira.

CAPTAIN'S LOG

I had the most unbelievable day yesterday. I toured the eastern portion of Madeira by automobile and on foot. Everything I was told about Madeira's rugged beauty and ecosystem diversity is true. First, we set out from Funchal going east through the old town. One look at these quaint, old roads would bring the hardiest Boston Cabby to his knees. The colorful streets are very steep, easily at a 30-degree angle and no more than 12 feet wide, which barely allows for two-way traffic. Our driver explained that everyone has the brakes checked at least every 3000 kilometers. That made us feel somewhat more secure.

Next, we traveled "under" the new airport runway extension. The airport expansion is quite an impressive project. The runway, which is constructed over an imposing cove and valley, must be 200 meters wide by 800 meters long. Massive concrete pillars that thrust up from the valley floor support it. I've seen elevated highways before, but this structure is unbelievable. The existing runway is too short to land anything larger than short-hop 737s but when the new one opens this summer, Madeira's Airport will be able to handle any jet aircraft flying today.

Then, it was off to the coastal community of Santana and a new hotel overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and the far off Porto Santo Islands. The hotel was built in the middle of a deserted vineyard so its traditional Madeiran three story building rising up through the mature vines, is quite the beautiful postcard image. The scene is made more inviting by a lovely swimming pool. The pool is covered now, but the roof is fully retractable for better summertime enjoyment. Although the weather was occasionally damp and cloudy, the Porto Santo Islands, nearly 100 kilometers to sea, were easily visible from our 1000-foot high vantage.

Then we went up again, relatively speaking. Because when traveling these roads you no sooner start going up, than you begin coming down. The steep grades and never-ending switchbacks keep drivers alert and continuously turning. Straight away stretches of open road are nearly non-existent. In the middle of one piece of particularly crooked road we came upon an amusing roadsign. It depicted curves ahead. Wouldn't you think that a sign showing the infrequent straight road would have been far more appropriate? None the less, we continued up into the beautifully rugged mountains, traveling a treacherously narrow road often devoid of paving due to the erosive action of winter rains. We were going to see the famous Levadas. The Levadas were dug by hand in the 16th century as a way of channeling the plentiful mountain run-off into the rivers and farms. These impressive irrigation canals meander for over 1,500 kilometers and have clear pathways running alongside them. The pathways are for maintenance purposes but they provide unique avenues and opportunities for hiking enthusiasts. A hiker can travel from village to village on these excellent paths guided by occasional signposts that show the location and the elevation. We stopped at one of these at an elevation of 883 meters or 2896 feet. We were no more than two miles from the Atlantic Ocean. From sea level to 3000 feet in two miles is quite a grade but, no hill for a climber.

The natural beauty is enhanced by the strikingly diverse ecology. Suddenly, we were hiking amongst enormous fir trees with trunks easily measuring four feet in diameter. The forest floor under the deep green canopy was carpeted with a thick layer of needles and the air temperature around us was very close to freezing. It was cold and eerily quite except for the gratifying sound of water falling tumultuously in the nearby creek. It was eerily silent yet deafening.

We continued our up again, down again journey toward Poiso, a town located at an elevation of 1412 meters. Ice began forming on the roadway and our attempt on the summit of Pico Areiro (1810 meters) stalled just three kilometers short of the top. Police barricades were erected to warn of the dangers posed by ice and snow. Still, many tourists parked and hiked that last distance. The residents of Madeira make an annual pilgrimage up to the mountain peaks just to see the snow.

We coasted down the mountainside and back to the warmer clime of Funchal. We were worn out by the effort required to "hold on" during our six-hour odyssey through the rugged terrain. However, we covered a lot of ground in the process. Just over 100 kilometers, a little less than 63 miles or one hour of highway driving on an interstate. We were laughing about this when our driver said that he avoids all driving during his annual visits to the United States. Why? It is so boring that he begins to fall asleep at the wheel! Imagine that. I am happy that he avoids driving in Boston but happier still that he was our driver and tour guide on this great day. See you tomorrow.

dockside Madeira: Empire State on the dock in Funchal, Madeira

QUESTIONS FOR WEDNESDAY 19 JANUARY 2000

GEOGRAPHY: When the cadets leave Gibraltar they will head for Greece. What are the Name three bodies of water that Greece borders?

SCIENCE: Speaking of seas - where is the Yellow Sea and why is it yellow?

HISTORY: Britain became interested in Gibraltar in the time of Oliver Cromwell, but the opportunity to capture it did not arise until what war?

MATH: The Training Ship Empire State was built in 1962. She was converted to serve as a training ship in 1989. What percent of her life has been devoted to training cadets?

ANSWERS FOR TUESDAY 18 JANUARY 2000

GEOGRAPHY: Gibraltar.

SCIENCE: The seawater it displaces weighs more because large portions of the interior of the ship is filled with air.

HISTORY: 3-years, 7-months and 12 days. However, Gibraltar held fast and remains a British colony to this very day.

MATH: 100 hours to travel 1500 nautical miles. 86.84 hours to travel 1500 statute miles.

 
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